The relationship
between chocolate and female health in our culture is legendary. How
many times have we heard a female friend say they "need
chocolate," with a tone of desperation in her voice? Indeed,
despite its relatively recent reputation as a confection, chocolate
has a long history of use for medicinal and nutritional purposes in
various cultures. In this article, I will explore the cultural pharmacology
of chocolate, drawing extensively on an excellent review of the anthropology
of chocolate by Dillinger et al. (2000).
The Archaeology of Chocolate Ecstasy
Theobroma cacao, which is native to the Americas, was used in both
Mesoamerica and South America and while cultivation and use of cacao
was more extensive in Mesoamerica, many scholars have argued for
a South American center of domestication (Cheesman 1944, Stone 1984).
The wild ancestors of cacao found in Mexico are genetically distinct
from both current cultivars and South American wild cacao plants
(De la Cruz et al. 1995, Gómez-Pompa et al. 1990).
Chocolate is cacahuatl in Nahuatl (Aztec language), derived from Olmec/Mayan
etymology. The word cacao originated with the Olmec peoples who occupied
the lowland regions of the eastern Mexican gulf coast (Coe and Coe
1996) and is said as 'kakaw' in Olmec. Cacao terms were
subsequently developed by adjacent Mayan people who in the early 21st
century have a detailed cacao vocabulary (Coe and Coe 1996). The Nahuatl
(Aztec language) term cacahuatl for cacao was concocted from the Mayan
word for cacao (Cuatrecasas 1964, Davila Garibi 1939, Thompson 1956).
Indigenous peoples of the New World transmitted knowledge of cacao
through oral histories, stonework, pottery and the creation of intricate,
multicolored documents (codices).
According to the Maya, the god Sovereign Plumed Serpent gave cacao
to the people after humans were created from maize (Bogin 1997, Coe
and Coe 1996, Montejo 1999, Tedlock 1985) and they celebrated an annual
festival in April to honor their cacao god, Ek Chuah, by sacrificing
a dog with cacao-colored markings (Aguilera 1985, Thompson 1956). The
Mexica (Aztecs) adopted cacao as a food and medicine when they arrived
in the central valley of Mexico (Coe and Coe 1996) and the Aztec god
Quetzalcoatl (also Plumed Serpent) discovered cacao in a mountain filled
with other plant foods (Coe and Coe 1996, Townsend 1992). The Madrid
Codex depicts priests lancing their ear lobes and covering the cacao
with blood as a suitable sacrifice to the gods. The Mexica also served
cacao beverages to sacrificial victims to "comfort them" during
an annual festival to honor Huitzilopochtli (god of war and the sun)
(Townsend 1992, Vaillant 1941).
Before initial European–Mexica contact in 1519 cacao was taken
only as a beverage and reserved for adult males including priests,
high government officials, military officers, distinguished warriors
and sacrificial victims, since cacao was considered intoxicating and
unsuitable for women and children, as well as very valuable (Coe and
Coe 1996, Townsend 1992). Cacao residues are found at archaeological
sites where chocolate beverages were offered to the deceased (Bañales
1999, Hall et al. 1990, Hurst et al. 1989). Cacao seeds also served
as currency (Hernández 1577, p. 303).
European Discovery of Cacao
Columbus, in 1502, was the first European to encounter chocolate, when
he captured a canoe that contained mysterious-looking "almonds" in
use as a source of currency (Coe and Coe 1996). When Hernando Cortéz
(Cortés) landed on the east coast of Mexico near modern Veracruz
and marched inland (Cortés 1519, Díaz del Castillo
1560), Montezuma's guards brought him, in cups of pure gold,
a cocoa drink followed by a feast featuring jugs of chocolate (Díaz
del Castillo 1560, pp. 226–227). It is possible that Cortez
and his men might have been aware of cacao already from the islands
of Cuba and Haiti but the consumption of cacao as a beverage was
certainly first observed at Montezuma's court (López-Gómara
1552, p. 162) and introduced to the Spanish court in 1544 by Kekchi
Maya nobles brought by Dominican friars (Coe and Coe 1996). Within
a century, demand for this beverage led the French to establish cacao
plantations in the Caribbean, while Spain developed cacao plantations
in their Philippine colony (Bloom 1998, Coe and Coe 1996, Knapp 1930).
The Mayan word cacao entered scientific nomenclature in 1753 when
Linnaeus labeled it Theobroma cacao (food of the gods), blending
Greek with Mayan etymology (Coe and Coe 1996, Linné, 1741–1778).
In the 1880s cacao became a major commercial crop in the English
Gold Coast colony in West Africa (Bloom 1998, Knapp 1920 and 1930).
Chocolate in Mexica Medicine
The Florentine Codex (1590), a massive compilation of Mexica culture
compiled by priest Bernardino de Sahagún who moved to New
Spain in 1529 (D'Owler 1987), emphasizes the effects of green
cacao in causing a drunken, dizzy state in high doses and a refreshing,
invigorating state in moderate doses (Sahagún 1590, 119–120).
Chocolate was drunk by the Mexica to treat intestinal complaints,
and combined with liquid from the bark of the silk cotton tree (Castilla
elastica), to cure infections (Sahagún 1590 112). Patients
with cough who expressed phlegm took an infusion prepared from opossum
tail, followed by a chocolate beverage mixed with mecaxochitl (Piper
sanctum), uey nacaztli (Chiranthodendron pentadactylon) and tlilixochitl
(Vanilla planifolia) (Castillo Ledon 1917, Coe and Coe 1996, Sahagún
1590, Part 12: 12, Durand-Forest 1967, Gauge 1648). Chocolate served
as a vehicle to deliver other medicines, including quinametli made
of "the bones of the ancient people called giants" (vertebrate
fossils?) which was used to treat patients who passed blood (Sahagún
1590:189). The Florentine Codex offered a prescription of cacao beans,
maize and tlacoxochitl (Calliandra anomala) to alleviate fever, panting
of breath and faintness of heart. The Badianus Codex (1552) noted
the use of cacao flowers to treat fatigue.
Chocolate in European and Colonial Medicine
Sixteenth to early 20th century manuscripts in Europe and New Spain
discussed the use of cacao in emaciated patients for weight gain,
stimulating the nervous systems of exhausted patients, improving
digestion and elimination, and stimulating the kidneys, as well as
treating anemia, poor appetite, mental fatigue, poor breast milk
production, tuberculosis, fever, gout, kidney stones, reduced longevity
and low virility. Chocolate paste was used to administer drugs and
counter the taste of bitterness. Cacao bark, oil (cacao butter),
leaves and flowers were used to treat burns, bowel dysfunction, cuts
and skin irritations. Hernández (1577:304) wrote the first
natural history of cacao and noted that larger trees produced seeds
that were used for currency while smaller tree's seeds were
used for beverages. Hernández described a medicine called
atextli, which was a thin paste made of cacao beans and maize, that
could be "compounded" by adding mecaxochitl (Piper sanctum)
and tlilxochitl fruits (Vanilla planifolia) used to excite the "venereal
appetite" (Hernández 1577: 305). He also mentioned a
beverage called chocolatl, made by mixing grains of pochotl and cacahoatl
in equal quantities, that had the properties of making the consumer
"extraordinarily fat" if used frequently which was prescribed to
"thin
and weak" patients (Hernández 1577: 305).
Humoral theory became an important element in chocolate prescription.
In 1591 physician Juan de Cárdenas complained that un-toasted
cacao produced a constipating effect on the stomach, drained menstruation,
closed the urinary tracts, blocked the liver and spleen, reduced facial
color, weakened digestion, caused shortness of breath and led to fatigue
and fainting (Cárdenas 1591), yet if cacao was toasted, ground
and mixed with atole (ground maize and water), it led to a robust state
of health (Cárdenas 1591).
Santiago de Valverde Turices in 1624 argued that cacao was "cold" by
nature, whereas chocolate prepared from beans was "hot" and "dry" and
therefore suitable to prescribe to those suffering from "cold" or "wet" illnesses
(Valverde Turices 1624, pp. D1–2). Antonio Colmenero de Ledesma
wrote his treatise on chocolate, Curioso Tratado de la Naturaleza in
1631. He mentioned that cacao preserved health and made consumers fat,
corpulent, faire and amiable and "causeth conception in women.
. . . takes away the morpheus, cleaneth the teeth, sweetneth the breath,
provokes urine, cures the stone, expels poison, and preserves from
all infectious diseases" (Colmenero de Ledesma 1631: A4). Tomas
Hurtado noted that a chocolate drink "gives comfort, burns up
undigested foods and helps digestion" (Hurtado 1645, Vol. 1,
2:13). Thomas Gage described a form of medicinal chocolate blended
with black pepper that was administered to patients with "cold
livers" and one mixed with cinnamon promoted urine flow and was
administered to patients suffering from kidney disorders and to others "troubled
with cold diseases" (Gage 1648, p.108). Henry Stubbe noted that
in the Indies, chocolate was drunk twice each day to restore energy
if "one is tired through business, and wants speedy refreshment" and
that tlilxochitl (vanilla) was added in a mixture to strengthen the
brain and womb. He reported that English soldiers stationed in or about
Jamaica lived on cacao nut paste mixed with sugar that the troops dissolved
in water and that Indian women often survived entirely on chocolate
yet did not exhibit a decline in strength. He noted that the cacao
nut was a remedy against inflammations, ergot poisoning and mixed with
Jamaica pepper provoked urine and menstrual flow, strengthened the
brain, comforted the womb and dissipated excessive "winde," or
flatus, while vanilla added to chocolate strengthened the heart, "beget
strong spirits" and promoted digestion in the stomach. And when
achiote was mixed with chocolate it "allays feverish distempers. …repels
praeternatural tumors…strengthens the gums" (Stubbe 1662:
58–60). He added that different varieties of peppers, specifically
mecaxochitl or piso, when mixed with cacao paste "opens obstructions,
cures colds, and distempers arising from cold causes; it attenuates
gross humors, it strengthens the stomach, and it amends the breath" (Stubbe
1662, p. 67). Several varieties of ear flowers (xochinacaztlis or orichelas)
(Cymbopetalum penduliflorum) when mixed with chocolate provided a quality
scent and taste to the medicine that was used to strengthen the stomach,
revive the spirit, "beget good blood" and to "provoke
monthly evacuations in women." Stubbe cited famous physicians
who noted that drinking chocolate "helps to digest ill humors,
voiding the excrements by sweat, and urine" and that "one
may live months, and years using nothing but chocolate" (Stubbe
1662: 97–98).
William Hughes' ethnobotany of plants growing in English plantations
in America noted chocolate's use in "preventing unnatural
fumes ascending to the head" and to cure the "pustules,
tumors, or swellings" experienced by "hardy sea-men long
kept from a fresh diet" (scurvy?). Once ashore, sailors drink
chocolate because it "is excellent to drive forth such offensive
humors, opening the pores, and causing moderate sweats." Hughes
urged readers living in England to drink chocolate, especially persons
with "weak constitutions, and thin attenuate bodies." He
notes "I think I was never fatter in all my life, than when I
was in that praise-worthy Island of Jamaica, partily by the frequent
use (of chocolate), neither had I one sick day during the time I was
there, which was more than half a year" (Hughes 1672: 147–148).
Sylvestre Dufour published an early recipe for a chocolate drink consisting
of 700 cacao nuts, and a pound and a half of white sugar, two ounces
of cinnamon, 14 grains of Mexican chile pepper, half an ounce of cloves,
three straws of vanilla or anise-seed, a filbert size amount of achiote,
almonds, and filberts (Dufour 1685: 72–73). Anise-seed was added
to neutralize the "coldness" of the cacao. The fattening
properties of chocolate are described as due to the hot and moist,
buttery properties of chocolate which go to the parts of the body (fat)
that is like themselves.
Nicolas de Blégny notes that taken with vanilla syrup in the
evening, chocolate suspends rheumatoids and inflammation of the lungs
(Blégny 1687: 282–285). In his The Natural History of
Chocolate, D. de Quélus described a "councilor about a
hundred years old, who, for 30 years past, lived on nothing but chocolate
and biscuit, yet was so vigorous and nimble, that at fourscore and
five, he could get on horseback without stirrups." He also added
that chocolate was used as a vehicle for millipedes, earthworms, vipers,
and eels and chocolate oil works to ease pain and treat the skin (Quélus
1719:77–78). The famous naturalist Carl von Linné (Linnaeus)
noted that chocolate helped wasting brought on by lung and muscle diseases,
hypochondria and hemorrhoids and worked as an aphrodisiac (von Linné 1741).
Alexander Peter Buchan suggested that women in labor should be served
chocolate as well as to prevent fainting brought on by blood loss (Buchan
1792: 224). Antonio Lavedan cautioned against chocolate drinking in
the afternoon and recommended it for tuberculosis and consumption by
replacing "the loss of nutrient balsams that have stolen the
consumptive warmth" (Lavedan 1796: 223). Anthelme Brillat-Savarin
noted that chocolate is an antidote to the inconveniences ascribed
to coffee and is "suitable to those who have much brain work
to do, such as clergymen and lawyers, and especially for travelers" and
urged people to drink a cup after breakfast, as this facilitated digestion
as well as chocolate mixed with ground amber dust as a remedy for hangover,
when the "faculties are temporarily dulled, and during periods
of tormented thinking." He also suggested that people with "delicate
nerves" mix it with orange flower water (Brillat-Savarin 1825:
100). Auguste Saint-Arroman noted that ginger, pimento, cloves, Spanish
arachis or earth pistachio—a plant known in English as the peanut
(Saint-Arroman 1846: 82) were all added. Auguste Debay like so many
other European writers, recommended the addition of sugar to chocolate,
but he also recommended addition of ground lichen, quinine extract,
and cinnamon to create a vermifuge and treatment for syphilis (Debay
1864: 91). Others emphasized that chocolate was capable of "repairing
the losses due to work, pleasures, and staying up late at night" (Panadés
y Poblet 1878: 192). According to Pedro Felipe Monlau, to create purgatives,
ground cacao was combined with Convolvulus scammonia (scammony) and
Convolvulus jalapa (jalapa). Antihemorrhoid suppositories were prepared
using cacao butter, cocaine hydrochlorate and ergot and a "calming
suppository" (supositorio calmante) was made of cacao butter,
belladonna extract and laudanum (Monlau 1881: 202–203). Cacao
butter was often used to prepare suppositories that contained belladonna
or ergot. Gustavo Reboles y Campos noted in a work he translated, that
to force-feed patients "it is preferable to mix [the medicine]
with chocolate or liqueurs" (Reboles y Campos 1888: 183). Mariano
Villanueva y Francesconi suggested that "people suffering from
cancerous diseases eat wild game and fowl, like partridge, duck, pheasant,
woodcock, avoid coffee and tea and use chocolate instead, and avoid
acids and alcoholic beverages." When mixed with ground melon/pumpkin
seeds, ground almonds, milk of sweet almonds, chocolate was used as
an emulsion to counter diarrhea (Villanueva y Francesconi 1890: 333).
Cacao butter was frequently used in ointments, along with pig lard,
tallow, oil of sweet almonds, olive oil, and lanolin. Juan Bardina
recommended that an ointment prepared from cacao butter be applied
to the breasts of nursing women who developed sores and cautioned that
candy bars were often wrapped in silvered paper, which was toxic (Bardina
1905; 307). Other writers cautioned against the use of chocolate as
a candy and by nervous or excitable people (Varios Profesores 1912:
4).
Chocolate Today
The idea of using chocolate to deliver bitter tasting medicines as
a binder by pharmaceutical companies eventually led to the modern
candy industry that flourishes in the US today (indeed Mars, Inc.
sponsored much of Dillinger's research). Pharmacist Jean-Antoine-Brutus
Menier created a chocolate factory in France in 1825 where he coated
medicines with chocolate until his sons took over and transformed
it into a candy factory which became more lucrative. Also it is interesting
that traditional people used all parts of the tree: cacao bark, fat,
flowers, fruit pulp and leaves and we are beginning to see a revival
of interest in this in modern health foods and beverages.
Recent ethnographic fieldwork by one of the authors in Oaxaca, Mexico
showed that many Mesoamerican and Colonial practices of chocolate use
continue to survive, it is one of the principal foods consumed in Oaxaca
on a daily basis. The oils make it a useful medicine for bronchitis
and it is used as anti-venom against scorpion, bee or wasp and used
to treat espanto (susto), a disease of fright, by feeding the earth
at the location of the fright with cacao.
The use of chocolate through history for medicinal purposes attests
to the many health-promoting and pleasure-inducing properties of this
food and explains widespread interest in the use of chocolate today
for its nutritious, medicinal and cultural properties.
About the Author
Tim Batchelder, BA, is a communications consultant who specializes
in the anthropology of science and technology. He can be reached
thru his website www.anthrocode.com and by email at tim@anthrocode.com for further discussions, reprints or additional research.
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Dillinger, T. L., Grivetti, L. E. Food of the Gods: Cure for Humanity?
A Cultural History of the Medicinal and Ritual Use of Chocolate Journal
of Nutrition 2000; 130: 2057S-2072S.
Montejo V. Popol Vuh: A Sacred Book of the
Maya 1999 Douglas and McIntyre
Toronto, Ontario, Canada.
Tedlock D. Popol Vuh: The Definitive Edition
of the Mayan Book of the Dawn of Life and the Glories of Gods and Kings 1985 Touchstone New
York, NY.
Yuker H. E. Perceived Attributes of Chocolate.
Szogyi A eds. Chocolate:
Food of the Gods 1997:35–43 Greenwood Press Westport, CT
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